Does your skin need it?
Skincare became a widely used term among all beauty enthusiasts, skin specialists and beauty gurus on social media. Everyone began talking about their favorite chemical exfoliator and their go-to serums. But many still do not know the difference between all the trending products we see on online stores and which product they would possibly need to add to their routine. There are a few things to determine and understand before figuring out if you should give in to the trend.
The previously most known type of exfoliation was physical exfoliation. Basically, it is manually scrubbing off dirt and the dead skin on the outer surface of the skin using scrubs containing small particles, such as sugar and/or coffee. But recent studies showed that it causes redness, inflammation and hyper-pigmentation, according to an article on Vogue.
Chemical exfoliation has revolutionized the skincare world and people have been switching from natural remedies to the chemical formulas that are now being sold in pharmacies, online stores and online shopping apps. These chemicals work by breaking the bonds between the dead skin cells and the healthy skin below, revealing the natural glow that has been hiding beneath.
Skin therapist, Maha Shaheen, said you should first determine your skin type, each type requires a different routine. The basic routine for any skin type should consist of a good cleanser, toner to seal pores opened by cleanser, moisturizer (which all skin types need, even if you’re oily) and finally SPF sunscreen if you’re exposed to sunlight.
To know which skin type you have, use a face wash and after an hour, if your:
T-zone is oily, cheeks are dry, you have combination skin
Whole face is oily, you have oily skin
Skin became tight and formed a thin white layer, you have dry skin
Skin that is prone to redness and irritation is sensitive skin and could be with any of the previous three.
Now that you know the basic ABCs of skincare, when should you consider adding more steps to your routine? To put it simply, when your skin is suffering from specific problems such as active acne, acne scars, aging and fine lines, hyper-pigmentation, sun and environmental damage.
Which of these trending new products would you need? Skin therapist, Maha, told us what each type does to your skin.
Acids
AHA - Alpha Hydroxy Acids, such as Glycolic, Lactic and Mandelic acids
Properties:
Water soluble
Great for dry skin
Great for sun damaged skin
Suitable for sensitive skin types, due to its lighter concentration
Functions:
Boosts collagen production (treating hyperpigmentation)
Light exfoliant, rids skin of dark acne scars
Balances pH level of skin
BHA - Beta Hydroxy Acids, such as Salicylic acid
Soluble in fats
Suitable for Oily & Combination skin types
Reduces appearance of large pores, active acne and black and white heads
Great for darker skin tones
PHA - Poly Hydroxy Acids, such as Lactobionic acid
They have larger molecules than AHAs, which takes more time to penetrate the skin. They are also suitable for sensitive skin types and act as antioxidants.
Hyaluronic Acid
Absorbs any moisture on outer layer of skin and pushes it into the skin
Revitalizes skin by this hydration
Vitamins
Niacinamide, a type of vitamin B3
Great moisturizing serum
Reduces oil production
Boosts ‘Ceramide’ production, locking moisture into skin
Lessens large pores
Vitamin E
Antioxidant
Hydrates
Reduces redness and inflammation
Sun protector, blocks harmful UV rays from penetrating skin barrier
Vitamin B5, panthenol ‘At home healer’
Hydration
Healing, great for after facials (treating scars and open pores)
Reduces redness after exfoliation
Vitamin C
Good for skin hydration
Great for an after treatment, when you’ve treated almost 60% of your skin problems
Brightens skin
Should not be used with any acid, as it would damage the acid's effect on the skin
Retinoids
Dermatologist and cosmetic expert, Dr. Shereene Idris, recommends beginning with a retinol ester or retinol before working your way up to retinoic acid.
Products from different brands differ in the concentration of the active ingredient in each product, where more concentrated products would be more expensive. Figure out the suitable product according to your skin type’s needs and tolerance to concentrations and your budget, recommends Dr. Mai Mohsen, pharmacist in Boots Pharmacy, Dubai, UAE.
There are cheaper alternatives of Egyptian products available in pharmacies to begin with and monitor your skin to work your way up, such as Acretin which has lower concentrations instead of retinol as an exfoliant, and panthenol as a strong hydrator and healer, recommends pharmacist and skin specialist, Nermeen Fakhreldin.
“Your skin is not a trend. Focus your skincare on your skin’s needs. Everything great was once new, but not everything new is great,” said Dr. Shereene on her official Instagram account.